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15.1.11

The Cruise

This post will cover the 2 week+ period from February 25th through March 12th, which includes our Hawai'i cruise.

Friday February 25th
We drove in the rain all the way to San Pedro on our way to the Doubletree Hotel, where we spent the night before the cruise.  Although a very nice hotel with a great view of the marina from our room, the Doubletree lacks the services provided by their cousin in the Hilton chain, the Hampton Inn.  Hampton provides free in-room Wi-Fi service...Doubletree is about $12.00 per day.  Hampton provides a free breakfast and a brown bag snack to take with you...Doubletree has a restaurant.  Both have in room coffee makers, but the Hampton has coffee brewing all the time in the lobby and snacks all day. 
The big bonus for us was the Doubletree provides free parking for the duration of the cruise and shuttle service to and from the ship.  Additionally, Judy used her Amex points for the hotel, so it was all free.

Saturday February 26th
We left the hotel this morning to look for an ATM and breakfast.  We stumbled upon the unassuming Waffle and Omelet Shop on Pacific Avenue.  Judy ordered the whole wheat waffle and I had the Italian omelet.  Her waffle was perfectly done with a little sweetness to the taste.  Fresh fruit is available for any waffle on request.  The Italian omelet was big and fluffy and stuffed with sweet sausage and Ricotta cheese.  The whole thing was covered in a rich home-made marinara sauce.  Outstanding! Leaving the restaurant we noticed a wall full of recognition plaques from the Senate, New York and L.A Times, Conde Naste and others. Who knew?
When we got back to the hotel, the bellman took our luggage to the shuttle and we were off to the Princess dock to board the Sapphire. The process was well organized compared to the few other cruises we have been on.  Within 60 minutes we had checked our luggage, checked ourselves, passed customs and boarded the ship.

 The ship is a huge beauty and elegant by anyone’s standards.  We spent the first couple of hours just trying to orient ourselves and find our way around the 17 decks.  Our cabin, on deck 10, the Caribe Deck is spacious and comfortable with more closet space than any ship we’ve been on previously.
At the “Sail away” party in the ship’s atrium the band played some really good Rock-n-roll while the crew members gave away prizes.  By the time it was over, everyone was in a good mood and ready to party.
One of the most exciting parts of a cruise for us is always the food.  This is an excellent opportunity to try things you would not get elsewhere or were reluctant to try for fear you would not like it.  There is no obligation or guilt here.  If you don’t like it, say so, and they will bring another choice.  We usually try to get different things and taste each other’s selections.  I won’t bore you with a day to day foodie type critique.  At the end of the cruise, I’ll give my overall opinion of the cuisine. 
It was a really long day, so after a stroll around the ship to try to walk off dinner, it was time to say good-night!
Sunday February 27th through Wednesday March 2nd
The seas were rough the first three days, but the rocking of the ship presented no problem and it was time to sit back and enjoy the ride.
We headed to the library to pick out a couple of books to relax with on a deck chair.  Besides being a little rocky, the weather was also very cool on those days, so we opted for lounges around the indoor pool.  With seas at nearly 15 feet, everyone on board today looked like they had one too many Mimosas as they wobbled from side to side.
We spent our days eating (yeah, you eat a lot on a cruise), at one of the dozen or so Jacuzzi’s on board, or taking in some of the shows in the theatre.  We got to meet people from all over the world and truly enjoyed learning about them and their experiences. 
With only five cruises under our belts, we are truly rookies compared to some of the people we’ve met.  One couple had been on over 140 cruises all over the globe.  Impressive, but we know we’ll never come close to that. 
Monday evening was one of the three formal nights on board.  Nearly everyone was out and about in their tuxedos and gowns, giving the ship that old grand elegance you rarely see these days.  It may seem stuffy to some, but I rather enjoy getting the old “penguin” suit out of the closet once in a while.  And there is nothing like sitting in a tux at a casino table, drink in hand, feeling very “Bond”…especially when you walk away with several hundred dollars of the casino’s money.
By Wednesday, the seas had calmed, the sun was glaring and it was time to get pool-side and attempt to change the color of our skin.  Hoping to go from a pasty winter white to a golden bronze, most of us ended up with more of a boiled lobster red glow.  Beside swimming and sunning, there is plenty of other entertainment at the pool.  Aside from the music, cocktails and margarita demonstrations, there is the people watching.  I find the men most amusing. 
Basically, I break it down into three categories.  First, the hulky guys who never stop walking around rippling their mussels.  They’re like sharks on the hunt.  Second, there are the guys like me; middle-aged or older, and perhaps not in the best shape.  Some with less hair than others and some with fewer teeth than others.  Like the majority of the world, they are also the majority on this cruise.  Then there is the third kind.  Mostly European, the old guys who look like they are about 15 months pregnant and find absolutely nothing wrong with wearing a Mark Spitz style Speedo.  Ya gotta love their guts!
Thursday March 3rd
At 8:00 a.m. we pulled into Hilo, on the “Big Island” of Hawai’i.  Hawai’i is the largest of the islands and is still growing, thanks to the active volcano, Kilauea.  Home of most of the State’s ancient lore, it is where the fire goddess Pele created the volcanoes that created the islands.
Today we visited Volcanoes National Park and the Halemaʻumaʻu Crater.  Here, a measurable earthquake is recorded every 15 seconds.  During our trip to the park we were escorted to a cauldron that was spewing steam.  The park Ranger, informed us that the steam eruptions were not uncommon, but not regular events.  We were fortunate; however, to be at the site at this precise moment, for during our visit, the opening gave a roar and a massive pink mushroom cloud rose into the sky.  This pink cloud, unlike the white steam cloud, was an eruption of volcanic ash.  We were able to snap several photos and then escorted back to the tour buses.  If the wind carried the cloud toward us at the visitor center, the area, and perhaps the park would be closed.  The ash cloud is apparently toxic. Two days later, a major eruption took place in the park.

McGarret's office was top right
 Friday March 4th
Overnight we sailed from the largest island to the most populated; Oahu.  Of the more than 1.2 million residents on the State’s six major islands, 900,000 live on Oahu.  Honolulu, the site of today’s destination, is home to almost half of the inhabitants on the island and a quarter of the State’s population.  Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach, and the State Capital are all found here.

After the tour, our guide schooled us in the Hawaiian alphabet.  There are only 12 letter - 5 vowel and 7 consonants.  If the letter "W" is at the beginning of a word is is pronounced as a "W" as in water.  If it appears in the middle of a word it is pronounced like a "V".  That's why they prounounce the name of the State as HaVai'i.  We also learned our Hawaiian names...Judy is Lukikia and Mike is Mikala.
During our tour of the city, we saw all of those sites plus the famous statue of King Kamehameha, the Iolani Palace, and the Aloha Tower.  All made famous by the original Hawai’i 5-0 television show from the 1970’s.
Next we were escorted to the World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument.  The complex pays tribute to the Airmen, Sailors, Marines and civilians who were part of the attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7th 1941, and those who served in the Pacific Theatre.  The attack jettisoned the United States into the war. 
The most famous exhibits at the memorial are the USS Arizona and the USS Missouri.  Over 1400 men went down with the Arizona after a torpedo sunk her in the harbor.  Those men are still down there, and the top of the ship is visible in the shallow water where she was berthed.  The monument was erected across her bow and she is still leaking drops of oil every day.  These drops are said to be the tears of the men entombed within her and will not stop until the last veteran of WWII is gone.

USS Missouri and USS Arizona Memorial
Gun turret of Arizona protruding the surface
Fittingly, parked near the Arizona is the USS Missouri.  As the U.S. involvement in WWII began in Pearl Harbor, it ended on the deck of the Missouri where the Japanese signed the declaration of surrender.
I doubt anyone who visits this memorial comes out unmoved.  It has been said that those who ignore history are doomed to repeat it.  The main reason for the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor was oil.  Go figure!
Saturday March 5th
This morning we docked at the port of Nawiliwili on the island of Kaua’i.  Shortly after breakfast we boarded a bus taking us to a flat bottom river boat on the Wailua river.  Here lies the Fern Grotto, a natural amphitheater in a dense lush rain forest.  All along the river were plants and flowers rich in color and thick to the edge of the water.
Inside the grotto, we were treated to a duet performing the Hawaiian wedding song.  Thousands of wedding have taken place at the historic and picturesque site.  Legend says the gods will favor those who wed here.

Our boat ride continued to the Smith Cultural Gardens.  A botanical garden, this park is truly a tropical paradise.  Flowers, plants, water, fish and fowl inhabit it’s beautifully landscaped acreage. 
After our tour of the grounds, we were directed to the “imu”.  An underground cooking pit, the imu is where our pig was being unearthed in preparation for the luau.  What a feast!  The pork was shredded and served on the buffet along with teriyaki beef, Hawai’ian sweet potatoes, sweet breads, and of course “poi”.
A staple starch in the islands, poi is mashed taro root which resembles a purplish grayish wallpaper paste, and pretty much tastes like it too.  They tell you to dip the meat in it, but it did little for the taste of the meat or the poi.
An open bar was included with the luau and I discovered the Mai-tai!  I’m sure that after God created the Islands, he sat back the created a Mai-tai, looked at his work and said, “Man, this is good!”.
During the luau, in celebration of our 20th wedding anniversary and the reason for the cruise, Judy and I took part in a traditional Hawaiian wedding ceremony.  We renewed our wedding vows, and pledged our devotion to each other.  Then to symbolize the giving of our hearts, we exchanged orchid lei’s.  Finally!  After three days in Hawai’i, we got "lei’d"! 
Sunday March 6th
Our overnight cruise brought us to the shores of Lahaina on the Island of Maui.  We anchored out in the harbor and were shuttled by boats to the dock.  Lahiana is an old whaling port with historic buildings lining Front Street from end to end.  These building now contain mostly tourist shops and entertainment. 
Near the dock is the oldest and largest Banyon tree in the State.  The Banyon tree’s branches are huge and long and grow vines that extend to the ground.  When they hit the soil, they take root and act as support columns for the massive branches.  A sight to behold.

We walked to corner of Front and Prison Streets, where the Harley Rental office was located.  Unfortunately, they were not open yet, so we walked around the corner to the scooter rental store.  Here, Adam, a classic old hippie from southern California, fixed us up with a Vespa-type scooter, told us the best places and we were off to explore..
We rode along the coast and stopped at a couple surf-side parks to walk into the crystal clear blue water.  Further up the road, we went into the mountains and along some seriously twisty roads.  At first it was very strange doing this on a scooter rather than a Harley, but hey, we were on two wheels with the wind in our faces in one of the most beautiful places on earth.  I guess it still qualified us as "scooter trash"! 
On the way back, we stopped at the filming location for some of the jungle scenes in the movie "Jurassic Park".  Here, the air was thick with the scent of pine and pineapples.   About 70 miles from our starting point, we came upon the spot Adam suggested.  We walked over the hill and down the path to the edge of a sheer rock cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  This was the place everyone imagines when they think of Hawai’i.  The surf was crashing into the rocks below and spouting the water skyward.
A stop for lunch and some shopping on the return trip got us to the scooter shop five hours after we began.  Adam flashed me the peace sign as I left the sand floored building filled with surfboards and scooters and watched over by Maggie, shy the min-pin.
Soon the ship had set sail for the journey back to the mainland.  As we left the harbor, humpback whales splashed about all around us.  We even saw a mother and calf flopping in the water and waving their tales at us as if to bid us a final “Aloha”.

Monday March 7th through Thursday March 10th

The return trip to the mainland was much like the westward sailing at the start of the voyage.  Close to Hawai'i the weather was warm and the further we traveled the cooler it got.  We lounged by the pool, ate ourselves into several comas, went to the shows, traded books, attended two more formal evenings and returned a good portion of the casino's money.

On Thursday evening and well into the wee hours of Friday morning, we were glued to CNN as they reported the devastation following the earthquake and tsunami in Japan.  The tsunami brought several personal concerns for us.  First, our nephew is a Marine stationed in Japan and second, the wave was headed in our direction at a speed of about 500 miles per hour.  My calculations estimated it would make contact with the ship at about 7:00 a.m. Friday.  Around midnight, our time a message on our phone advised us that Louis, and the Marine base in Okinawa were unaffected.  At about 3:00 a.m. I was able to get to sleep when I learned that the safest place to be was on a boat in the ocean.  Fortunately for us, the wave passed under us without incident.  Additionally, none of the ports where we were headed were affected.  Our prayers and thoughts are with those who were impacted in any way by this disaster.

Friday March 11th

At 2:00 p.m. we arrived in Ensenada, Mexico.  Mostly to fulfill the very strange cruise ship regulations that any cruise vessel, not registered in the U.S., must make a stop in a foreign port at some time during the cruise. 

Frankly, we were pleasantly surprised and pleased we made the stop here.  Many people, including friends, family and fellow passengers, advised us to "don't even bother to get off the boat."  Some said this because they felt it was dangerous; others because they said it was dirty; and some said there was nothing to see.

Our findings were just the opposite.  It was no dirtier than many U.S. cities we've visited; I felt no less safe there than home, and there were some very interesting things to see and do.

We got off the boat and decided to board a shuttle for the old downtown section.  At the shuttle terminal, we checked the tour for La Bufadora, the "blowhole".  We considered booking this tour on the ship at $35.00, but had succumbed to the advice to stay away.  Now, at the terminal, the price was $15.00, so we went for it.

Our guide, Jenny, went into great detail about the history, culture and lives of the residents of Ensinada.  During the 30 minute drive to La Bufadora, we passed through the old section and the many traditional shops.  Outside of town, in the suburbs, we drove past Wal-Mart, Costco, MacDonald's, TGIFridays and other familiar names.

View of La Bufadora from directly above
Nearing the blowhole, we walked past a line of vendors selling everything from Steeler ponchos, to leather bags, to fruits and candies, to over-the-counter medications like Amoxicillin and Viagra.  Once at the blowhole we were treated to a spectacular show courtesy of Mother Nature.  A cave in the rock cliff at water level has a hole in the top.  When the waves come into the cave they are shot 80 feet into the air with a loud roar.  This roar is the reason for its name, La Bufadora.  Roughly translated, it means "The Buffalo". 

After viewing the spout, Judy went shopping and I went to the Havana Banana, a corner restaurant, bar and cigar store.  I entered their humidor room and found myself surrounded by thousands of Cuban cigars.  The clerk told me that if I wanted to buy a box they would remove the Cuban bands and replace them with Mexican so I could take them home.  At $10 each, I decided to just try one.  Moments later, I was sitting at the bar, sipping a Dos Equis, or two, munching on homemade chips and salsa and puffing on my first Cuban cigar.  Only wish I had thought to have the bartender snap a photo.

By 6:00 p.m. our brief visit to Ensenada was over and we were on our way to the Port of Los Angeles to conclude our Hawai'i Holiday.

Saturday March 12th

All good things must come to an end.  We left the Sapphire Princess around 11:00 a.m.  The Doubletree shuttle took us back to the hotel, we loaded the Smart and drove back to Newbury Park and unloaded the luggage into the motor home.  Later, we drove to Vera and Marc's to reunite with Mia.  If there was any downside to the cruise, it was missing that little stinker.  Needless to say, it was a joyful reunion.

Hits and Misses - the Cruise Critique

Hit - Of course, the food!  Nearly every dish was well done.  Some very nice selections and the opportunity to try new things.  The desserts were outrageously good.  We ate in 3 different dining rooms for dinner, had breakfasts in the main dining room as well as in the cabin, and there were ethnically themed buffets for lunch each day at the pool.  The two poolside lunch stations were a nice choice.   When you got tired of all that rich food, you could always grab a burger or dog and fries, or a slice of New York style pizza.

Miss - The entertainment on board left a lot to be desired, and when you have nine out of fourteen days at sea, that can become a problem.  The house performers that sang and danced were at best O.K.  Whoever selected the acts must have loved the Vegas style lounge acts.  Two in particular...a sax player that was very good at playing, but just too much of that lounge lizard style for me.  Then a woman singer who reminded me of a Liza Minnelli wannabe. 

The biggest flaw with the entertainment was the theater itself.  It only held 800.  There were 2600 passengers on board and most shows were only done twice.  That meant at least 1,000 people couldn't get in to see the shows.

Hit - Still on entertainment...Carlos Oscar!  OUTSTANDING! Hysterically funny as he talks about his family and life in general..  HBO and Comedy Central have featured him.  He was so good, we bought his DVD.  Also, a great performance came from Steve Morris.  Former guitarist for the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean, plus a studio musician for many others is now doing a musical comedy routine that will split your sides.  The other entertainment, like the string quartet, the games and events were fun to watch or join in.

Miss - As nice as the cabin was, that's how bad the bed was.  I swear that I pulled back the sheets to see the manufacturer's label of the mattress and it said "SAKRETE"

Miss - Linens were not changed regularly.  The bed was made and the room cleaned moments after leaving the room, but Judy had to ask the steward to put on fresh sheets.

Hit and Miss - I determined that taking tours are a necessary evil.  It's the only way you get to see all those things you wanted to see in an efficient manner.  They get you there and get you in.  However, you have to put up with being herded like cattle and not having enough time on the tour or even on shore to explore.  We've pretty much agreed that it was a great taste of Hawai'i.  Now we'll work on going back, on our own, to spend more time in the places we wanted to stay longer.

Hit - Overall, it was a great cruise and a great vacation.  The crew was beyond nice and extremely attentive to our needs.  This was the trip of a lifetime, and it completed one of our goal to visit all 50 States.

HIT - JUDY!  Without her, none of this would have been possible.  Thank you and I love you!

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