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21.1.11

Saturday February 12th

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We got the Harley's out of the trailer this morning for a ride to the north.  About a quarter mile from the entrance of our campground is the entrance to the 101 Freeway.  This road runs over 1500 miles from Los Angeles, through Oregon, and terminates in Olympia, Washington. Parts of the road merge with California Highway 1 and also follows the El Camino Real (The Royal Road or the King's Highway).  El Camino Real was laid out by the early Spaniards to connect the Missions built in the 18th century.  Current portions of the historic road are identified by markers replicating a shepherds staff and bell.
About a mile north on 101, the Pacific Coast Highway (CA 1) separates from the freeway and hugs the coastline.  Beach communities, like Sea Cliff and Muscle Shoals, along with public areas spread out along the route.  In certain areas, the shoulder of the road is lined for miles with motor homes and trailers parked for the weekend.  Other areas are filled with cars, trucks and VW buses carrying surfers and their boards to the breakers.

Most of the time the Pacific is in view to one side of the road and green mountains to the other.  The shore line changes from wide sandy beaches, to rock covered and back again.  On this warm Sunday morning, the water is populated with surfers, swimmers and boaters enjoying their surroundings, as are we.

After passing Santa Barbara, and now back on the combined CA 1 and US 101 Freeway, the mountains, part of the Los Padres National Forest, become a little steeper and closer to the shore.  As you pass signs for towns like Goleta and places like Rattle Snake Canyon, you smell things like the grass and pine on your right mixed with the scent of the sea on your left. 

Sixty miles from our starting point, at Gaviota State Park, 101 and 1 separate.  As 101 heads north, we take CA 1 in a more westerly direction.  Now on a mountain road, it is reminiscent of roads we traveled in the Cody, Wyoming area.  Craggy mountains quickly change to tree covered.  Then just as quickly, there are vast expanses of rolling hills covered with grass and grazing herds of cattle or horses.  Looking up, you can see hawks and vultures among other birds.  We think we spotted a golden eagle as well.

Entering Lompoc, we follow Ocean Avenue through town.  After a few blocks, we were in the flat farm areas that surround this little city.  Along the way there are several industrial facilities that carried the familiar NASA logo.  This area is near Vandenberg Air Force Base, and is part of NASA's tracking system along with a launch site for military and commercial, unmanned satellites.

A bit further, Ocean Avenue terminates in the parking lot at Ocean Beach Park.  Here we pause for a few minutes to enjoy the view after a nearly 100 mile ride.  A bottle of water and granola bar later, we turn around and head back from whence we came.

We decided to stop for lunch in Santa Barbara.  We rode out onto the pier (Motorcycles park free) and found the designated motorcycle parking area near the end.  One of the local folks came over to admire Judy's trike and during the conversation, suggested we go the the Santa Barbara Shellfish Co.  He said it was the best in town.

Santa Barbara Harbor from our table
A very casual establishment, the Shellfish Co. had two rows of counter-top seating inside.  One at the bar and one at the windows facing the harbor.  Outside there were a few tables on the side of the building looking out at the water.  We opted to wait for the outside seating and after a short wait, we were seated and ready to order.

I got a pound and a half of the local Rock Crab.  Served with slaw and onion rings, the crab was sweet and delicious.  The body and claws of this crab are packed with meat, but the shells are more brittle that that of Alaskan King or Atlantic Blue crabs.  You have to be careful when cracking to get all the tiny pieces, but well worth the effort.

Judy got the Cioppino.  Everywhere we go out here, this stew like seafood dish is a bit different.  This one, containing shrimp. clams, mussels and crab, was served in a sourdough bread bowl with a side of Rock Crab claws.  The broth was one of the best we have ever had.  A little spicy, but rather mild by Cioppino standards.  Covered with shredded Parmesan cheese, it was absolutely wonderful.

Riding back as the sun began to set was a perfect finish to a perfect day.  A nearly 200 mile ride with the one you love is always a great way to celebrate Valentine's Day a couple of days early.

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